The choice of a site for planting organic wild strawberries is approximately the same as for raspberries. The slope does not have to be the same as on the slide, otherwise, all the water will flow down. In one place it will be overdried, the other will be waterlogged.

We show the experience of the Kremenets Monastery: they cope with the inclined site by their own methods.

Soil preparation. For strawberries, quality organic compost is needed, otherwise, it gets sick.

Garden strawberry reacts very well on green manures. It is necessary to create a good green manure mass and make a patch.

Drip irrigation. A filtration station and a water analysis are obligatory. This should do a specialist who indicates immediately what problems are in the water.

If for a raspberry, at least, it is possible or probable, for a strawberry I do not recommend to take water from open sources. It is very sensitive to diseases.

Preparation for planting. Be sure to use hummus, but it must be properly prepared for strawberries, it grows in a limited environment, not developing the root system too much. Therefore, the principle of taking fertilizers from the inter-row will not work here: everything that it needs, it will take from the middle of the rows.

But the general principles are the same: watering, soil preparations, covering with straw. Soil should be well drained and not clayey so that the water in it does not stagnate.

If the water is still stagnant, there are various ways to remove it: you can make wells, trenches, etc.

Watering should be constantly controlled, the agronomist should have a watering log, where everything should be fixed.

Protection system. It basically does not differ from those used on raspberries. Unless I emphasize Viteri preparation, which is not produced in Ukraine. It is designed against white and gray rot. Use this preparation on the ground and on the leaves.

You can use Bordelaise liquid, but for strawberries, I do not particularly recommend it, it can lead to burns and also it has limitations on the standard.

Crop formation. The strawberry has no opportunity to develop the root system, about 40% of this system is dying. It is necessary to start to feed strawberries when it forms rosettes, that is, to disperse the crop to make it larger.

once THE CURRENT harvest appears, THE strawberry STARTS TO WORK on THE next harvest

It is better to do “in one drop” when watering, give 3-4 components: stimulating, nutritious and protective. You do not need to do this separately. In organic production, in one operation it is necessary to obtain maximum efficiency because one pass of the sprayer is expensive.

Formation of the future harvest. As soon as it gave its current harvest, the strawberry begins to work on the future harvest. Therefore, the money should be invested immediately after harvesting.

The plant should feel comfortable, and if you ran to sell the picked up strawberries, leaving everything behind, be sure that you’ve lost the next year.

How many years the garden strawberry should be used. This is a difficult question. I would recommend no more than three. There are methods that update the root system for another two years. They are quite complex, and I would not advise you to use them. I can not say if they worth it, because these methods are not sufficiently studied.


As for the limited time, during which there can be a high yield of strawberries. For comparison: a woman can potentially give birth to up to 20 children. If she will give birth every year, then the characteristics of each child, sorry for such a metaphor, will deteriorate, because the woman will gradually give her energy away to children.

So does the plant that is gradually depleted, it has its individual potential. And that is why we have to increase its yield in many ways, more than it can harvest naturally.

But the faster we accelerate it, the faster it will lose its power. Therefore in organics a soft approach is used, so that the yield does not skip, but is more or less uniform.

Nikolai Bykov, consultant on organic production. consultant on agronomy (certificate No. 26 / 2017/2)

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